Algae Scrubber. That’s me.

Well, further to the previous article, I am now an algae scrubber. No not the kind that sits in your sump.


The kind that pulls the rock out of your tank and takes a scrub brush to them.

Here are a few pics of a pile of scrubbed rocks next to some yet-to-be scrubbed.

Scrubbed Rocks

Left is scrubbed. Right is covered in algae.

The process of scrubbing half a tank of rocks took about an hour. I only scrubbed bare rocks (no corals on them) or easy to manage rocks that only had a few corals on them. No corals were harmed in the making of this picture.

I siphoned out 15 gallons of water from the tank to use in the cleaning process. In one container I had 5 gallons of scrubbing water and in another container I had the receiving water. where the rocks sat until I was ready to put them back in the tank.

I will wait till next weekend before I tackle the other side. For some reason working with this algae gives me a terrible allergic reaction and I now feel like I am full swing in the middle of a nasty cold.

Lets hope this cleansing lasts.
As you can see, i need to do the walls too. Sigh.

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More on algae removal

My quest to erradicate hair algae isn’t going well.
After testing out Hair and Sludge, which seemed to help a bit by slowing the growth, it did not get rid of it entirely as I had prayed it would. I guess my genie in the bottle didn’t appear.
I have decided to do something drastic. If you read anything wrong with this plan please post a comment.
A trip to the fish store to top up my cleaning crew to start my day.
1 a water change. I plan to remove aproxomately 15 gallons of water to be used later.
2 one rock at a time I will transfer to a bucket and manually scrub, with new brushes, off as much algae as I can. This may require a seperate tank where I will need to transplant corals that I remove before I scrub.
3 shake off any detritus. A really good shake. I don’t want any dead matter back in the tank.
4 place rock in a bucket of SW
5 repeat with half the tank.
6 replace rocks to tank
7 repeat steps with other half.


The reason i am going to split this is I see this as being a big job in a 75 gallon tank. Part is to give me a break and also to allow me to rebuild after removing half the rocks.

After I will replace any phosban and start my skimmer from fresh. I will also need to scrape off the glass and syphon out any crud left on the substrate. I am hoping that the drastic removal will remove any sources of phosphate that may be feeding it.

That’s all for now. I’ll reort back, possibly with some progress pics.

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BWI RO-DI unit- Followup

I totally forgot to post the specs. so here


Membrane – watts
5 stage RO/DI
Stage 1- 1 Micron Sediment NSF® certified
Stage 2- Catalytic Carbon for Hydrogen Sulfide and Chloramines Removal 12 x 40 mesh size
Stage 3-0.5 Carbon Block Cartridge for Long Life and High Chlorine Reduction 20,000Gal Capacity NSF® certified
Stage 4- 100 GPD Membrane TFC 96%-99.5% rejection rates max PSI 125
Stage 5- Nuclear Grade Mixed Bed DI Resin Cartridge for Demineralization flow 1GPM

Oh and for a decent pic of the install (My pictures are terrible), have a look at this by Michael of Aqua Digital. He is embarking on a show tank for his home and business.

First peice to come in was his RO-DI unit just like mine. View his thread at RC here.

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Hair and Sludge algae removal.

I finally got my free sample of Hair and Sludge from Ultralife. Following you will see my progression of using the product. As of me writing this I don’t know what to expect! Exciting!

January 28th
Following the instructions I plucked out as much algae as I could by hand and did a 20% water change.

I used half of the contents of the 3 packets that come in the bag. 2 packages look like standard media you would put in your Phosphate reactor. the 3rd bag looks like little Styrofoam balls the size of a small ball-bearing.  After rinsing out all the bags they were placed into filter bags. and the bags were placed in the sump at the first stage (where water flow is the fastest). thsi was allwoed to sit for about 24 hours. After 24 hoursI put the rest of the media in the sump along with a little pouch labeled ’A’. That went directly into the tank. Now I wait.

Feb 5th
Slow going after first week. The algae seems to be growing normally, if maybe a little slower. So I emailed Ultralife -
” It varies. The product removes the nutrients feeding the hair, so it will possibly take a little while. You should start to see it slow then actually recede. From testing it takes anywhere from a few days to several weeks.”

So there you have it. I’ll pump up the skimmer and the Phosphate reactor. The skimmer seems to be producing more skimmate. I assume its due to the process.

This is where we sit at this point. I just replaced the media in my Phosban reactor and bought a new pump for it.

BE GONE FOUL ALGAE!

Stay tuned for an update around the 11th.

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BWI Plumbing SR-1 5 Stage RO-DI unit

I have had the pleasure of procuring a new RO-DI unit for my fishies. This is all part of my quest for domination over the evil Hair Algae that has taken over my tank.

The SR-1 units all come plug and play. It took me just over a half an hour to get this hooked up. It was very simple.

1. Remove from box (VERY well packaged by the way): 5 minutes

2. Unwrap media (VERY important): 5 minutes

3. Main unit screwed to the wall above my set-tub in the basement. Make sure to use a level. : 10 minutes

4. Rinse out everything. You may not need to do this but I do it for everything I buy that goes in the tank. Often I use a vinegar/water solution.: 10 minutes

5. Screw in tanks. Comes with a handy tool to assist in this. Makes the job real easy.: 5 mins

6. Hook up water feed, waste drain and processed line: 10 minutes

7. Turn on water.

My output was dead on as expected with the first batch. After tossing out the first 5 gallons (to get rid of the residue from the filters that may have come through) the filters produced about 24 gallons in about 8 hours. that’s 3 gallons per hour or 72 gallons per day. A great first run for a 100 GPD unit. Most units will run short for a while until the membrane gets worked in.

After the test run above I took the advise of a friend and ran my water from the furnace’s humidifier feed line instead of from the sink. This required only that I buy a couple pieces of 1/4″ tube fittings for a T-junction and a on/off valve.

The process of hooking that up only took 10 minutes.

Overall I am very pleased with the product. If I had to make any criticism it would me to include some fittings and screws to hook it up.

I’ll include some pics of my unit and hookup. The image above is from the BWI website.

OH! Go here to view the entire line.

They also sport a good line of PVC fittings, tubes, bulkheads and Check out this bulkhead alternative.

Oh, and Join the Revolution!

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Algae Scrubbers, a natural way to filter

I have an algae problem like nothing I have seen anywhere else, except in that fish store that is maintained by teenagers who would rather be out hangin’ with their homies than looking after all the dead fish in the tanks.

In the sea, if you wander down to the shoreline, you will see 1 of our most used tools at work. On some shorelines, you will see a buildup of froth when the waves come crashing in. what does it remind you of? Right! Your skimmer. the froth is the skimmate of the sea and it builds up and is filtered out in the sand and on the rocks.

Another tool you will see at work is an algae scrubber. Have a look at the rough rocks with algae growing on them. Usually if it is there it will be in abundance. This is where the ocean has a concentration of nitrates/phosphates and what-have-you that encourages the algae to collect and thrive on the rocks. An algae scrubber offers the same thing, but on a much smaller scale. The purpose is to make the algae want to grow somewhere else instead of inside your fish tank.

scrubber swamis-lowtide

Scrubber Image courtesy of Algaescrubber.net. Algae on rocks from Sandiegofun.net

The basic design principal is to take tank water and run it over a textured surface. The algae particles in the water column will adhere to the surface and the algae will grow, given enough light. Once the algae grows, it will continue to do so. The algae growing on this surface will be more inviting than growing in your aquarium. Why? It will be brighter, nutrients will be more concentrated and the flow of the water will be more vigorous.

The most important feature of the scrubber is the lighting. the brighter the better, and to make it more efficient, have the algae grow on both sides of the surface. Use 2 lights!

The components usually consist of a pump, some PVC tubing and a screen. the screen is suspended from a length of PVC with holes drilled or cut into it. The water is pumped through the PVC tube and allowed to flow down over the screen. More complex designs can be done to improve effectiveness, like having multiple screens and lights, enclosing the whole thing into its own box or tank, making it almost horizontal instead of the usual vertical, and the list goes on. See this link for a huge list of design ideas.

Cost of a scrubber is very cheap. you can probably assemble all the supplies for under $30, including lights. Many simply use a standard socket with a curly compact fluorescent bulb backed by some makeshift reflector to direct as much light to the surface of the scrubber as possible.

Besides lighting, the next most important thing with an algae scrubber is keeping it clear of excess algae. You don’t want to completely clean it. You want it to grow a nice base, or as is commonly called, the “turf” that stays attached to the screen. This gives algae the reason to grow there. Once a week the scrubber needs to be cleared of the excess. This is done because as the algae grows, it gets thicker and blocks out any light to the algae that is growing deeper on the surface causing it to die inside. Death of algae can lead to leaching out of the stuff you are trying to filter out. Nitrate and phosphate levels will rise, water will begin to discolor and that smell, you know the one, will start to emanate from the scrubber. The cleaning is the demanding part of the scrubber but this can be done in 5 minutes so it is not a time-sink like a water change.

So there you have it. A properly and effectively run algae scrubber can take over the job of a skimmer. Many people run both, but in many cases the skimmer has been removed as the scrubber filters out most of that bad stuff and more effectively.

Sadly there are no manufacturers of algae scrubbers, so we are left to our own DIY projects. I will be building one soon to battle my algae problem and will post about it here. If you have a scrubber running, please let us know how you like it, we’d love to get pics too!

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Thanks from Fluval – and a thanks right back at ya!

The Fluval G (and Edge tank) continues to be the most read story on Tank Gadget. It was a very successful launch and the Hagen marketing team should get a big pat on the back for making it so.

Fluval G Teaser

Fluval G Teaser

That teaser way back in June 2009 was genius!

I’d like to thank Hagen for keeping us all interested and for making my job easy with so many updates. Not to mention the props they give us on thier blog.

Have any of you geeks been lucky enough to get one? Post your impressions or send us a full review and we’ll post it for you!

Special Thanks to Fluval G Web Supporters

News of the Fluval G Series started leaking out in July of this past summer.   With the infamous blue glow “teaser” site up at Fluval-G.com, fishkeepers around the world were lighting up the online message boards, forums, blogs, Twitter, and Facebook.

Since then, the G Series has received more attention online and in stores than any other new aquatic product in recent memory.  We’d like to take this opportunity to say “Thank You” to a number of Aquatic blogs and sites that followed the launch of the Fluval G.  You can check out their coverage in the links below:

Practical Fishkeeping Magazine

Captive Aquatics

Pet Solutions

3Reef

Tank Gadget

Reef Builders

Reef Tools

via Fluval G Series (G3, G6) Reviews | FLUVAL: The Official Blog from Hagen.

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Top Reverse Osmosis RO/DI Water Filter Picks

RO DI Unit

RO DI unit

In researching RO/DI units I came across this page from About.com.

Say what you want about this site, I have found thier information to be very good and thier writers know what they are writing about.

RO/DI units take your tap water and clean it to be free of any nitrates, phosphates and other baddies before you use the water in your tank.

RO-DI stands for reverse osmosis /deionization and is actually 2 processes. The units come in several models or stages. Some only RO, some only DI but you can get filters that will do both and prices range anywhere from around $100 for a simple RO unit (or this one on sale at Drs. Foster Smith) to several hundred dollars for a unit that will even do your toast in the morning.

Top Reverse Osmosis RO/DI Water Filter Picks for Saltwater Aquariums – Reverse Osmosis RO/DI Water Filter – Reverse Osmosis Water Filter.

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Aquarium Dosing

Dosing is a technique performed through the use of a dosing pump. The pump is used to provide liquid supplements to an aquarium.

Why would you need such a thing? Can’t you just take the bottles and add a few drops of solution to your tank when it needs it?

The ecosystem in your tank uses up the beneficial bacteria, vitamins, fertilizers, trace elements and minerals and unless replaced, can become depleted enough to harm your living inhabitants. The dosing system automates the process by offering to add, drop by drop, the needed supplements. Most units are controlled on the doser by adjusting the amount you need to dose. Some have 2 outputs, some more. GHL offers two units. One stands alone and includes all the controlling built-in. The second unit is made to connect to the Profilux series of controllers.

GHL Doser with Controller

GHL Doser with Controller

Eheim offers a battery powered unit that sits on your hood to drip the fluids into the tank water. Very simple and effective.

Eheim Fertilizer Doser

Eheim Fertilizer Doser

Keep your tank healthy! ust like you, it needs it’s vitamins!

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Fauna Marin Star Fire pendants Price slash

The Star Fire series of lights are top quality and look great. Prices slashes are always welcome and it looks like Fauna Marin has done just that with the full line of dimmable and non-dimmable pendant lights.

Fauna Marin Star Fire

Fauna Marin Star Fire

We are pleased to announce that we can now supply the awesome Fauna Marin Star Fire pendants directly to you, this slashes the prices massively.

ALL lamps include LED shimmer spots and Moon spots as standard

These are available in dimmable GHL ready and NON dimmable

Dimmable pricing for now is on 54w 110V, if you want 220V then further dimmable wattages are available, we are also working closely with Fauna Marin and GHL to produce an AC dimmable 24w fixture by Christmas.

via Fauna Marin Star Fire pendants Price slash – Reef Central Online Community.

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